Carmanah Walbran Provincial Park

Located on the southwestern section of Vancouver Island, Carmanah Walbran Provincial Park is perhaps the most remarkable and wildest big tree forest in Vancouver Island and all of Canada. The park protects extensive tracts of luxuriant Pacific temperate rainforest, and is famous for its ancient old-growth. Two valleys are of particular interest: the Carmanah Valley and the Walbran Valley, both of which contain trees of gigantic proportions.

Carmanah Valley Mist trail

The central trails of the Carmanah Valley wind through the most densely packed and spectacular spruce groves left in Vancouver Island. In the early 1990s, this remarkable valley served as ground zero for the conservation movement resulting in a boardwalk trail that still exists today. Through its two round-trip miles, the Valley Mist Trail follows the Carmanah River closely, penetrating rain-soaked landscapes that are optimal for Sitka Spruce old-growth.  

The southern section of the Valley Mist Trail leads to both the Randy Stoltmann Commemorative Grove and the interestingly-shaped “Heaven Tree.” Unfortunately, due to years of storm damage, the Stoltmann Grove is closed to visitation but this magical place commemorates one of the most important conservationists in Vancouver Island’s history, whose relentless advocacy saved this and other valleys from destruction. The memorial is appropriate, as the grove contains one of the greatest concentration of titanic Sitka Spruces in the valley.

Upper Carmanah valley Trail

The Upper Valley Trail, north of the boardwalk section, leads upstream through lush old-growth forests of primarily western hemlock, amabilis fir, and, of course, spruce. Several sections of the trail are lined with grove after grove of huge trees. Because the path is not maintained north of the Valley Mist Trail, hikers must navigate significant blowdown. Though this slows the hiking, the overgrown feeling of the trail’s northern portion provides an unrivaled sense of adventure.

Several overnight backcountry camps, including Grunt’s Grove and Mystic Hollow, are accessible deep in the valley, and remove hikers far from civilization. Near its end, about six miles from the parking lot, the trail reaches a stunning swimming hole of deep turquoise water named Paradise Pool. The landmark is an appropriate turnaround for day hikers. Further on, the trail fords the Carmanah River and continues north though the trail becomes hard to discern. Here, the upper reaches of the valley offer hikers incredible solitude and true unspoiled wilderness.

meares island

Meares Island is among the three best giant tree hikes in Vancouver Island, alongside the Carmanah and Walbran valleys. At two miles in length, the “Big Tree Trail” - the only trail on the Island still maintained - lives up to its moniker. An astonishing density of huge trees, particularly western redcedars, stand among its dense understory. Throughout its course, the trail circles the peninsula and moves through a mossy forest to reveal giant after giant.

For about a third or so of the path, hikers are treated to a boardwalk that elevates above the forest floor. After the boardwalk ends, however, the trail drops into the muddy surface where a wet, sticky adventure begins. Because it requires boat or kayak access, the trail sees far fewer tourists than other hikes around Tofino. This enhances the experience as the trail maintains its primitive, remote feel.

Despite its short length, I recommend taking time exploring this island. At least a solid half-day is required to immerse oneself in the character of this ancient, old-growth forest. This place is truly magical and we have advocates from the First Nations community to thank for preserving it.

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve

Cheewhat Lake & Cheewhat lake Cedar

The forested perimeters of Cheewhat Lake contain several of of Vancouver Island’s largest, record-breaking trees, and some of the biggest trees in British Columbia. For reference, Cheewhat Lake is tucked into the southern portion of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. The lake is largely trail-less but a few of the largest trees grow on the eastern end of the lake and can be accessed by the short Cheewhat Lake Cedar Trail. Though not officially recognized by Parks Canada, the trail is worn and fairly easily navigated. After initially dropping a few hundred feet to lake-level, hikers encounter several giant trees, both standing and fallen.

The short 1.2-mile path weaves around the ancient forest through enormous trees and terminates at the world’s largest know western redcedar, the Cheewhat Lake Cedar. The girth of the Cheewhat Lake Cedar is measured at an astounding 18.34 meters (60 feet) and reaches a height of 55.50 meters (180 feet); containing 450 cubic meters of timber volume. The small grove near the Cheewhat Lake Cedar is perhaps the most striking with several redwood-sized specimens.

For hikers seeking a bit more adventure, logging road T23B provides access to the northern portion of the lake where a short bushwhack leads to an absolutely enormous tree that splits into two as one looks upward. This definitively primordial-looking western red cedar is likely a result of fusion between two independently huge trees hundreds of years ago.

Highway 4

Highway 4 connects the eastern and western sides of Vancouver Island before runing along the coast between Ucluelet and Tofino. Three roadside attractions are worth mentioning, along with Cathedral Grove that is also profiled at the end of this guide.

The Canoe Creek Recreation Site, in the middle of the island, is a roadside gem and convenient stopover for those wishing to stretch their legs on the way to the coast. The Site protects a small grove of huge cedars, the largest of which is the Canoe Creek Cedar.

The Rainforest Trail, which is in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, is an accessible introduction to the big tree forest environment of coastal Vancouver Island. The trail consists of loops north and south of the highway on well maintained boardwalk that offers clean vistas. Both loops combine for a distance of approximately about two miles so its a nice detour or warmup for longer or more primitive trails in the Tofino area.

Third, is the Ancient Cedars Loop Trail, close to the town of Ucelelet, is a well-graded trail that combines a stroll among some giant western red cedars and sitka spruce, and culminates with connection points to other trails that provide great views of the Pacific Ocean.

Clayoquot Arm Provincial Park

There exists a short but extraordinary big tree forest trail along the shores of Kennedy Lake near Clayoquot Arm Provincial Park. The road beyond the big tree trail has been closed for years and no longer allows full access to the rest of the Park, contributing to fewer visitors. The decreased foot traffic has resulted in slight neglect of the boardwalk around the big trees but the trail is still very doable. A few of the trees here are more than 15 feet in diameter and contorted to fascinating shapes. When in Tofino, this is an area that one must explore.

Port RenfRew

Avatar Grove

The increasingly popular Avatar Grove just north of Port Renfrew consists of two designated trails (upper and lower) passing through giant western red cedars and rare Douglas firs. Some of the oldest trees here have contorted themselves into really bizarre shapes and developed alien-looking burls and growths as they’ve aged over hundreds of years, making it one of Canada’s weirdest collection of trees. A highlight in the grove is “Canada’s Gnarliest Tree” — an ancient cedar with twisted wood. The trails were built (and its name was chosen) in an attempt to bring tourist attention to the area and prevent further logging.

Jurassic Grove

The wonderful cliffside forests south of Port Renfrew drop down to the gorgeous beaches along the wild western coast of Vancouver Island. Though the topography may be steep, large trees live on these slopes and are fed by the constant storms that originate from the ocean. Environmentalists have named a particular grove and built a short trail around it to promote its protection through public attention. The cedars in this “Jurassic Grove” are extraordinary in height and width and still live in a fairly wild environment that’s less developed than nearby Avatar Grove.

Port Renfrew

The small, sleepy town of Port Renfrew, British Columbia has become the unofficial “big tree capital” of Vancouver Island (and all of Canada) by attracting tourists the world over who seek to explore its nearby ancient forests. The town is partially known for a number of massive trees and groves that exist around its periphery. These behemoths are widely recognized as exemplary for their massive sizes. A few of these trees are worth mentioning, include the Red Creek Fir (the world's largest Douglas Fir), the Harris Creek Sitka Spruce, Big Lonely Doug, and the San Juan Spruce (at one point Canada’s largest Sitka spruce).

Cathedral grove (MacMillan Provincial Park)

The Island’s most famous big tree park is conveniently located right off of Highway 4 just east of Port Alberni. Cathedral Gove in MacMillan Provincial Park could actually be considered two groves. To the north, the park protects a beautiful stand of stout western red cedars. At one point, the boardwalk that traverses the area elevates and offers a fantastic perspective into these ancient trees. To the south, lay a grove of super tall Douglas firs that the park is known for. At more than 800 years old, these titans are stunningly large. A few plaques scattered throughout the grove mention the devastating 1997 New Years windstorm that felled hundreds of big trees. Though the storm changed the park forever, the remaining trees are beautiful nonetheless.

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