Los Flamencos National Reserve

Los Flamencos is a large protected area that houses a rich diversity of plants and animals in the middle of the Atacama Desert. Consisting of seven separate regions, each with different flora and fauna, it is perhaps the centerpiece of this arid desert and my favorite section of northern Chile. Ancient and extinct volcanoes dominate the landscape, particularly Miscanti and Miñiques, both of which rise over colorful altiplanic lagoons. However, what sets this place apart is the surreal colors of the land. At Salar Aguas Calientes, I encountered turquoise water and “piedras rojas” (or red rocks) at the base of large mountains; and at Bofedal de Quepiaco, I photographed yellow-colored vegetation and algae mixed with deep red soil.

Salar de Atacama

The Salar is the largest in Chile and the third largest in the world, meaning there is plenty of room for scouting foreground elements to place in front of the many distant volcanoes. My favorite section, Laguna Cejar, is a sinkhole that has collected water over time despite the aridity of the Atacama Desert. The salt concentration ranges from 5 to 28% (50 to 280 parts per thousand), producing (at the higher end of the range) a buoyancy like that of the Dead Sea. Tourists come here to float in the water but I was too enthralled photographing the place to get in and join them.

Atacama-Altiplano border

There are so many volcanoes to be found around the nebulous area where the Atacama Desert of Chile meets the Altiplano of Bolivia. Giants like Parinacota remain snow-capped year-round due to the extreme elevation and stable, cold temperatures. The beautiful mountain overlooks the muddy wetlands of Lago Chungará. Parinacota’s twin, Pomerape, are referred to together as the “Nevados de Payachatas” and are the centerpieces of Lauca National Park in Chile and Sajama National Park in Bolivia. Both can be seen behind the llama in the second photograph.

Bolivian Altiplano

The Altiplano in Bolivia is a dreamlike place of rolling mountains, colorful lakes and ponds, bizarre flora, and serene isolation. For example, Laguna Hedionda and Laguna Colorado are both high altitude lakes where bright yellow shrubs and ferns grow on the banks and flamingos feed in the multicolored waters. Beyond each are mountains and volcanoes of various sizes and elevations. Bolivia’s most famous natural landmark, the Salar de Uyuni, is the largest salt flat on Earth and driving through the perfectly flat surface without any background visual reference points disorients and obscures one’s sense of distance. Like Chile’s Atacama Desert, Bolivia has its own geothermal region, the Sol de Mañana geysers and like El Tatio, the light was best right at sunrise.

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